Category Archives: Kits

Added Canopy Pins

Van’s found an issue with the canopy pushing out during accelerated flight, so their solution was to add a pin to an existing canopy so it wouldn’t push out.  I thought it was going to be a real pain, but it wasn’t bad at all.  Took about 2 hours total time.  Here is the top of the pin in the canopy.

IMG_5802This is the bottom of the pin on the canopy.

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Here is where it comes down and sits on the side of the fuselage.  Originally I thought that part sitting up was going to be a pain, but it’s really no big deal.

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Start Your engines!!!

Today is the first engine start.  While it didn’t start the first time, it did start and ran beautifully.  I even taxied it down the ramp about 200 feet to wear in the brakes a little.  Pretty big RV grin now, I can’t wait to first flight.

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Time to move her to the Hangar!

I’ve done as much as I can with the parts I have, so time to move her to the hangar and attach the wings and tail.

Here she is leaving the comforts of my garage for the last time.

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Going down the road:

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Unloading at the hangar in Hammond.

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In it’s new hangar next to a RV-8 QB being built.  An uneventful trip, total time 1 hour with a ½ hour drive.  Great job to my helpers!

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Fabricated a Control Cable Bracket

I am not sure if I am going to use the Alt Air and I don’t want to put it on the bracket.  So if I do use it, I will put it below the air vent on the pilot side, well within reach if needed.  This gives me plenty of room between the controls and I made sure the Throttle is close to the flap switch so I can do both with one hand.

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Now I need prime the part and send it off to Aerotronics to put the carbon finish on it and label it.

Fabricated Oil Door

I am using the hidden hinge and the push button for the oil door instead of the two cam locks that stick up.  I have to wait to find another push button lock, I ordered one off of EBay, but I need to find another one cause I want to use two, just to make sure it stays down.

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Exhaust Update

Clint from Vetterman’s is sending me replacement mufflers.  The first ones were 2″ and the replacement will be 1 ½”.  He feels the fit will be better, so I installed the exhaust on the cylinders and I can mate up the mufflers once I receive them.

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Bus Bar Insulation

I thought it would be a good idea to use some shrink tube on the bus bar to help eliminate anything hitting it and shorting something out.  I used the ⅛” bus bar between the starter and master solenoids and 1/16″ on the other two.  I wouldn’t have been able to bend the ⅛” in that short area.  I’ll have to remove the ones on the shunt to be able to get to the two small screws to attach the other wires, but this way everything can stay in one place for now.

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Exhaust Installed, Temporarily

I received my exhaust from Vetterman and installed it.  One of the mufflers had a couple of dents in it and Clint is not sure this is the final design.  It is different from Van’s, it has two pipes verse the one that Van’s has going down the center tunnel.  I will have to cut a couple of holes in the bottom cowl to allow for them to come out the bottom.

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Motor Mount & Legs

Here is the motor mount before it was installed and then on the plane.  It was hard to get the fuselage high enough to slide the legs in, but was able to get it done.  I’ve been waiting since April to get it on it’s own legs, very exciting.IMG_5345 IMG_5368

Picked up the balance of the Finishing Kit

My finishing kit shipped and the freight company had a truck break down and they were not going to be able to deliver it until Monday.  Ah, no.  I went out to New Orleans East and picked it up in a friend’s pickup truck.  As you can see, it was a tight fit.  Unfortunately Van’s backordered the bolts to attach the motor mount, so I couldn’t get the wheels on today.  I made do and did some other tasks until I could get the parts.

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Installed seat backs

I installed the seat backs, but I may take them out again just to make it easier to finish up the wiring under the panel in case I have to get on my back.  It doesn’t sound like I will be able to order my seats before year end.  I am planning on getting them from Classic Aero, but they are swamped with other orders and haven’t even tried to measure for the seats yet.

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Installed Back Window

I had finished crawling into the back cone of the airplane, except I still have to connect the elevator push tube to the empennage once it’s installed, so I closed off the back and installed the back window.  I don’t like the way the black proseal shows through, but that’s how Van’s said to do it.  I wish I would have used some sort of clear silicone instead of the proseal.

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Fabricated Bus Bars

I decided to use the bus bar to connect the starter relay to the master relay.  I used a ⅛” thick bar on that one.  Then I created another bar 1/16″ thick from the master to the shunt and another one to the ANL Limiter which holds the 60AMP fuse for the alternator.  That bottom post will have a 8 AWG wire attached to it leading to the alternator.  I’ll go back and add some sort of shrink tube over the area that is exposed so nothing hits it and throws off sparks.  There will be a couple of other wires attached as well, a 2 AWG coming off the battery to the Master, a 20ga going from the panel to the Master and another 20ga from the panel to the starter.  There is also a 8 AWG going from the master by the yellow diode to the panel.  I’ll remove the stickers on them once I have everything wired.  It helps to remind me which one is which.

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Here’s where it will sit below the manifold.  I haven’t drilled holes in the firewall to mount it yet, I want to make sure there is nothing else going in that area, but I think that will be a good position.

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Firewall Planning

Here is a picture of the firewall with the fittings I currently have on it.  I am trying to plan any additional penetrations now before I receive the engine mount and actually mount the engine.  With the help from Matt, who’s building a RV-14a for Van’s, I was able to determine what the existing nutplates will be used for.

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Wiring, wiring and more wiring

I am working on all of the wiring that goes to P-1 plug.  All of the wiring for the lights, starter, battery master, fuel pump, P-Mags, accessory power plug, map & cabin lights, flaps and Alt Field.  Some I can’t do yet until the engine is mounted, because I don’t know exactly how long to make them, but whatever I can wire, I am doing so.

These are the wires for the lights and the fuel sender.

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The wires in the center are from the nav lights and all need to be hooked together.  I was going to solder them, but I think it may be easier if I use a splicer. IMG_5156

These are where all the wires go up the center channel.  Once I have them all pulled up from the wings, I will group these together and tidy them up some. IMG_5157

Here is the back where all the plugs come together.  It’s a mess now, but it will get cleaned up. IMG_5158

Left Side Panel Returned and Installed

I received the panel front from Aerotronics and installed it back in the plane.  Good news about the CO2 detector, the company checked it and no problems, plus they replaced the cover with a new one, so just like new.  I’m waiting on that return to install it, then I will be finished working with the panel for now.

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Here is the finished left side of the panel with the CO2 part installed.

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CO2 Detector Location Problem

Once the panel was installed, I put the canopy back on to test everything.  The one thing we didn’t account for was the tunnel of the canopy and the length of the CO2 detector.  It was too high up and stuck out too far, so when you bring the canopy down, it hits.  So I had to pull out the unit and send it back to be checked for damage and rearrange the panel to put the smaller items, the ELT and Hobbs above it.

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Installed Remote Transponder

Now that I think I am finished with the aft fuselage and bringing the wires forward, I went ahead and installed the transponder right behind the baggage cover.  That way it will be easy access when it needs maintenance.  Then I ran all those wires up to the panel.  Here you can see the location of the transponder and the shelf in the back with the magnetometers on it and how neat the wires are.

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I only have those two white wires on the left from the elevator trim that I have to deal with.  I think I will bring them up the right side of this picture and insert them into the molex connector on the pilot side.

Tidied Up the wires

I climbed in to the back of the plane and worked my way forward tidying up all the wires since I am pretty sure we have all the wires that are coming from the tail section.  The only two wires I need to address are coming from the elevator trim and tail light up to the bulkhead, then the wires coming from the bulkhead up to the instrument panel.  I also received the wire harness coming from the Garmin magnetometer and I ran that up to the panel.

More tasks

Wired the new aileron trim relay and terminated in P-7 and P-15.  Installed empennage to verify elevator fits correctly, drilled elevator horns.  Tested elevator trim.  Empennage is complete.  Wired white and green glare shield map light.  Installed Garmin 625 antenna behind the back window a little off-center on the pilot side due to the support going down the middle of the top skin.   Installed Garmin EFIS antenna in canopy on the glareshield.

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Finished wiring GRT mini magnetometer.

Right Wing Finished

We finished riveting the right wing after installing the AutoPilot and figuring out what to do about the aileron trim.  Aileron pushbuttons were installed.  Also installed the Garmin and GRT OAT fittings in the wings, one in the left, one in the right.  Ran wires from the ELT to the panel.  Both wings are finished and being sent to the warehouse to give us more room to work.

Picked up the panel at UPS

Instead of waiting for UPS to deliver the panel, we had them hold it and we went and picked it up.  It came well packed in a huge container.

IMG_4952Once we got the crate unpacked and all inventory done, it was time to start installing it in the panel.  Because some of the items were pre-wired, it was quite tricky, but once we had a chance to think about it, we got it in there.

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IMG_4962Once we got it in and hooked up, it was time to apply power to it to see if it would smoke!

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Well it didn’t smoke, which is a good thing.

IMG_4965Another milestone achieved.  Now it’s time to wire up all of the radios, etc.  To see the panel up close and the quality of work that Jason at Aerotronics did, I could not be happier.  Those with much more experience that me, were very impressed with the workmanship.  Thanks Jason!

 

 

 

Dennis Is Back in Town

Well, my expert helper is back in town, so it’s time to take off of work and get some work done on the plane.  I’m amazed at his breath of knowledge and don’t know how I could complete this build without his expert help and advice.

First he attached the rudder cable fairings that I fabricated from another builders plans.

IMG_4984 IMG_4983Then we closed up the left wing.  Once the riveting was done, we installed the aileron pushrod, etc.

IMG_4948We also painted the interior and built up the seat backs.  No pictures for that.

Canopy attached to the frame

Now the canopy is attached.  There are a few odds and ends before I can start the fiberglass fairing process.  I need to put in on the plane and check the fitting of the canopy, then attach the clips to hold it down while it is being fiberglassed.  At least the pool table is getting some use, other than for folding clothes.

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Time to drill holes in the Canopy

Time to pucker up and drill some holes in the canopy.  It actually was not bad at all.  Once I got the good fit to everything and drilled the initial holes, then you had to go back and widen them with a #27 to fit a #6 screw.  That was nerve racking because the drill bit kept wanting to twist as it entered the plexiglass.  I didn’t get any pictures of the process, I guess I was too focused on getting the holes right and not damaging the canopy.

Here is a pic of the canopy in place with the back window. The back window is finished and will be installed in the end. That will allow for easier access to the back of the plane until I finish all the wiring.

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I am waiting on some assistance on painting the inside of the canopy frame, because the back roll bar has to be the same color as the roll bar, which is Fighter Blue.  I can spray the primer, but I don’t have the correct gun or talent to paint the roll bar.  Once I get the canopy frame painted, then I can attach it all and start working on the fiberglass fairing on the front of the canopy and the frame.  Once that is finished, I will be waiting again for the rest of the finishing kit to be delivered.

Canopy

Now for the scary part, the canopy.  I put the plexiglass on the frame and measured everything and the back part needed a little trimming, so I used my dremel tool, then my perma-grit sanding block, then 400 grit sandpaper to get a good finish on the end.

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One I put the canopy on the frame, I outlined where it was going to lay on the front part. Then I used the epoxy slurry to fill any holes, then I painted it flat black like Van’s recommends to cut down on the glare.

Canopy Frame

It was time to start assembling the canopy frame.  Van’s was very adamant about checking for squareness with a digital level as you work on the canopy.  Although they didn’t mention what was within tolerance, I finished within 1/10 of a degree.

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Here is the canopy assembled and connected to the hinges.

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Back Window

It’s amazing how well the window fit without any modifications.  I did need to make the two notches in the back and a little on the sides by the roll bar, but other than that, it’s a very nice fit.  I had to wait on the #36 bit that Bob from Avery had made for the 14 builders, but once I got that, I was able to drill the holes in the canopy, then tap for a #6 screw into the canopy and the roll bar.  I had one of the taps break off, but luckily enough of it was sticking out that I could get a pair of pliers on it and get it back out.

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Pitch Autopilot

I went ahead and installed the pitch Autopilot.  Garmin sent a solid aluminum rod and it first had to be cut to size.  Then it needed a hole in the middle of it and then it had to be tapped to accept the fitting.  At first I couldn’t figure out how to drill the hole centered in the rod and Van’s suggestion was to use a lathe.  Perfect!  But that’s probably the only tool I don’t own, so I put the rod in a wooden block, clamped it on the drill press and carefully drilled the hole.  It worked perfectly.  Oddly enough the roll install kit comes with a rod that is already threaded.  If this didn’t work, I was going to order an additional rod and use it on the pitch, but it worked great.  Another skill learned!

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Backup Alternator

After several hours of trying every tool to get the lower left nut installed, I finally came up with a solution that required sacrificing a brand new wrench. I used a magnet extension to initially put the washer, lock washer and nut on the stud.

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Installed the ADS-B Antenna

I ordered all of the antennas. I got the ADS-B and Transponder Antenna from Delta Pop Aviation and the two Comm antennas from Aerotronics. Here I installed the ADS-B Antenna in the back. First I had to shave off some of the front of the antenna because of the interference with the bottom skin. Don from Delta Pop was nice enough to send me this drawing so I could see how much I could remove for a good fit.

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Then I fabricated a doubler to add a little strength in case the antenna gets bumped.

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I also installed the bracket for the ELT to put that in place.

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Subpanel & Radio Stack

I have been working on the layout of the panel and received some trays to fit into the radio stack.  We found out you can’t put the Garmin 625 on the bottom, unless you want to cut out part of the back of the subpanel because it is higher in the back by about 1 ½”.  This means I will have to put the AutoPilot on the bottom, then the Audio Panel, then the 625.  Not my ideal configuration, but I think it will work.

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Here is the back of the subpanel

Fuel Lines Installed

I had Aircraft Specialty fabricate the fuel and brake lines.  Van’s uses a thinner tubing than Aircraft Specialty and they use a CNC machine to get a perfect fit.  The brake lines from Van’s are plastic and AS uses braided Teflon.  Quite an improvement.IMG_4161 IMG_4168 IMG_4162Here are the brake lines.

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Building the Rotisserie

I picked up a engine stand at Harbor Freight to use to hold the plane. It worked out well because I was able to turn the fuselage to a point where it was easy to work on, without having to bend over all the time.

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Brakes and Rudders

While waiting to paint the interior of the cockpit, I worked on the rudder petals and the brakes.  I installed the pedals for the brakes, the master cylinders and installed the brake fluid reservoir.  It was a good time to install the battery box as well, so that has been added at this time.

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Fuel System

Once I put the two halves together, it was time to work on the fuel system.  I tried to bend the aluminum fuel line, but found that it was difficult to get really good bends, so I installed the fuel components and am waiting on the fuel lines.  Here is the fuel pump and filter.

IMG_3912Then I added the fittings for the firewall and the wings.

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And Then There Was One

After months of separation, the fore and aft sections of the fuselage become one on Christmas Day.  Once we got the orientation correct, it really was not that difficult.

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This is the view looking from the back of the plane through the tailcone.

Control Column

One of the more difficult tasks was getting the washers in between this tight area on the control column.  You had to do it on both sides of the bolt.  I created my “tool” out of scrap aluminum and used double tape to keep it on the tool until I had it in place for the bolt, then yanked the tool loose from the washer.  Worked well, just took a while to get the right size washers in that area so there was no left to right slack in the stick.  Perfect, no left to right movement at all.

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Bottom Skins Put Together

Here are some pictures of the bottom skins and the firewall put together.  Now it’s time to start working on the control column assembly.  I left the battery box off because I want to powder coat it before I install it.IMG_4048 IMG_4050 IMG_4051 IMG_4052

Prime the bottom skins

You have to prime the forward bottom skins where they go under the Center Bottom Skin.  It was also primed in the middle where there were a couple of scratches.  So I used some Scotchbrite and sanded out the scratches, then painted that.

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Better way to Dimple

I was backriveting the skin on a 12″ x 12″ steel plate in the middle of a board and didn’t get good results, so I flipped the skin on the bulkhead and clamped it down.  I think this method is going to work a lot better, but I am going to have to get my wife to hold the bucking bar.

I wish I would have thought of doing it this way the first time.  I will have to remove some of the rivets that did not sit well on the backriveting plate.

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Dimple the bottom skin

It’s time to dimple the bottom skin.  The instructions can be a little confusing here because, they are for both the tri-gear and the taildragger.  So you dimple or not in certain areas, depending on what you are building.  I am building the taildragger, so I have to make sure I don’t dimple in the wrong spot or otherwise mess up what would be a very expensive part to replace and ship.

IMG_4010Then I had to put two of the outboard ribs on the bottom skin and flute them in a curve.  Since the bottom skin is big, I needed a big area to work on it.  I’m glad the pool table is finally getting some use for something other than a laundry table.

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Fuselage Has Arrived!

Finally after 4 months of waiting, the fuselage has arrived.  Time to unpack and start inventorying.

IMG_3988IMG_3989I used the crate as a storage place.  Cut the top into shelf size pieces, so once I’m finished, it can be pitched out.

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Hopefully they remember how to put it back together!

Here’s our brand new Lycoming IO-390 about to get reworked.  They are going to Port Flow and Balance Cylinders, alodine heads and paint the barrels black, exchange camshaft for performance grind, O-Ring case and precision re-balance.  They are also adding the dual P-Mag instead of the magnetos.  Once done, it will be painted this blue.  Once all of that is done, test it.

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Wing Tip Lights

Added the wing tip lights.  When I first laid out the template for the navigation lights, it didn’t line up with the “Y” bracket.  Had I used the template, the screws would not match.  So I put the template down, then placed the “Y” on the template and marked the holes through the holes in the “Y”.

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Here is the “Y” piece installed.

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Here are the navigation lights  installed in the wingtips.IMG_3861 IMG_3862

Rudder Redo

Since I had the time and was not happy with the rudder, I redid it.  The trailing edge came out perfect.  I used clecos and clamps to make sure the edge was straight.  After I let the Proseal cure for 24 hours, I cleaned it up and reclamped it, then let it cure for another 24 hours.

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Counterweight on rudder

There was some talk of the screws on the rudder that hold the lead counterweight in place, coming loose.  Once the fairing is attached, there is no way to get in and hold the nut to tighten the screw.  So I did what some people suggested on VAF and used Proseal on the bottom of the counterweight, then once the screws were tightened down, I lathered the nuts up with Proseal.

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Lycoming at Van’s Booth

Decided to purchase the Lycoming IO-390 from Ly-Con.  They are going to add dual P-Mags, Port Flow and Balance Cylinders, Alodine heads and paint barrels black, disassemble engine, exchange camshaft for performance grind, O-Ring case, precision re-balance, then, test cell run.

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Redoing Rudder

I decided to redo the rudder because I was not happy with the trailing edge.  I got all new parts except for the spar.  The advice I had was to fly with it and if it gave me issues, replace after the plane is flying.  However, since the fuselage kit won’t ship for at least another month, I went ahead and ordered the parts to fix it now.  Also if I did that, it would cost me a lot more because of the repainting, etc.  Besides, it gives me something to do besides yard work!

Missed Rivets

There were 2 places that rivets were not called for in the plans.  The first one is at the top of the tailcone on F-01407 and F-14131, which I checked with Van’s and they said I could go ahead and rivet the two pieces together.  Then the bell crank ribs, F01429R&L where they attach to F-01407.  I was able to squeeze the top two, but the bottom one is impossible to get to with the squeezer.  I have a call into Van’s to see if I can use a LP4-3 in it’s place.

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Parts put away

Since I am finished with everything, except redoing the rudder, I am putting all the parts away safely and getting them out of the bedrooms.  Here the tailcone is stored safely up above the cabinets.

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J helped me wrap up all of the control services with bubble wrap, styrofoam and packing film.  I originally got the idea from KC.  The ailerons are on the top shelf, the flaps under that.  To the right are the elevators.  Since the counterbalance is on the outside, I put some weight on the opposite side to make sure they stayed put.  Bags of shot used in a diving belt worked good because there is no chance it will damage the skin.  I put the vertical stabilizer behind the flap and the flaps won’t move since the brackets come down through the wire shelving.  Then I put the wing tips on top of the elevators.  The only thing missing is the rudder, which will be built, again, in the next couple of weeks while I am waiting on the fuselage. photo 2 photo 4

Rudder Complete

Today I received a replacement order of pop rivets so I was able to finish redoing the skins on the rudder.  Since I didn’t originally bend the left skin, it was a little wavey.  I made the bend and redid all of the rivets and now it looks better, not perfect, but better.

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Fix for the Nutplate

Well of course it wasn’t a Van’s problem.  I had changed the nutplate from the K1000-06 to the K1100-06 and those nutplates stuck out more, which created the bend in the flange.  I removed the dimpled nutplates and added the correct ones, so I am confident the vertical stabilizer will fit better now.

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Nutplate on Vertical Stabilizer

When putting on the vertical stabilizer for pictures, the nutplates on either side – above the access panel were hitting up against the rear spar assembly.  It was causing a slight bend in the flange.  I reported this to Van’s today and they are checking on it.

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Fixing Bend in Rudder

When I initially did the overlap on the rudder skins, I did not make the bend in the leading edge of the R-00901-L-1.  The finish did not look good, so I drilled out all of the pop rivets, which was easy and creased the leading edge with my tool from Cleaveland and it came out much better.

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I ran out of the AD-41-ABS, so as soon as Van’s gets them to me, I will finish this repair.

Fixing Bad Rivets

While I have some time, I am going over some things that are bothering me on the plane.  The rudder had 4 rivets that were sticking up too much.  Not sure how that happened, but it had to be fixed.  First I removed the fairing, then all of the rivets holding on the R-903 Top rib and removed that.  Then I removed the Counterweight to get to those problem 4 rivets.

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Then I riveted everything back together and am very happy with the result.

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An airplane happening in our garage

We went ahead and attached the elevators, horizontal stabilizer, vertical stabilizer and rudder just to get a picture.  It was definitely a “wow” moment and pause for celebration.  Now while we wait for the fuselage to be released, it’s time to catch up on some chores around the house.

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Assembled Tailcone

We put the tailcone together to get some pics while we wait for the fuselage kit to be released.  I wish I could permanently attach everything, but getting it out of the garage and transporting it would be a problem.  That’s O.K. though because putting the tail together is very simple.


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Left Elevator

I bent the tab too far back.  I tried to straighten it out and redo, but was not happy with the finish.  Sooo… Van’s, Option 2.  Time to spend some more money on replacement parts.

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Time to add blood

It is better if you move your fingers out of the way before you drill a hole.  In the end, I decided since I was building this plane, I would leave some of my DNA in the plane.  It’s all closed up in the horizontal stabilizer.

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Both wings

Both wings now have the fuel tanks and Outboard leading edges attached.  I need to do the wing tips, lights and add any additional wires, then attach the bottom skins.  Since I had to start on the wings and this is my first experience, I misunderstood the priming issue.  I thought other builders were saying to prime on the rivet line and they were, but on the inside, not the outside.  Oh well, it is getting painted anyway.

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Wing with fuel tank and outboard edge attached

Here is one of the wings with the fuel tank, leak free and the Outboard Leading Edge attached.  Progress!!

There are several builders that have built these wing cradles.  Prior to building these, I had my wings sitting on the garage floor on carpet.  Not the best place for your wings.  They worked great and I was able to move them against the wall once I finished working on them.  Out of the way, safe and sound.

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Fuel tanks – yuk

Did I ever mention how much I hate proseal?  Some people say it’s no big deal, they lie.  It’s a pain and extremely messy.  It gets on everything and only sticks to what you don’t want it to.  Don’t forget the days you are going to work with it and wear something you want to wear again.  Here are a couple of pics of the fuel tanks.  The biggest pain is taking a 3.5 rivet and dipping it in proseal, then trying to put it in a small hole with a sticky glove on.  Now repeat 500 times.

Luckily I had my expert helper, Dennis helping me get through it.

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Flap trailing edge

Here Dennis is checking the flap trailing edge.  We used this table with a piece of angle iron to hold the edge perfectly straight.  It worked flawlessly.  All trailing edges are perfect.

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Ailerons

Starting to put the ailerons together.  I don’t think aluminum makes a good drill guide for steel.  While trying to “match” drill the holes in the steel bar used as a counter balance, the bit wandered.  I was able to use some steel putty to fill the gap and it repaired nicely.  That part won’t be seen anyway.  Once painted, you won’t even know it had to be repaired.

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Flaps

The flaps are finished, except for the trailing edges.  I am going to wait and do all of the trailing edges, flaps & ailerons when I do the fuel tanks since I will be using proseal.  You can see one of the fuel tanks on the wing stand all clecoed up.

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Trailing edge countersinking

Once you get the jig set up on the drill press, the countersink holes on the trailing edges came out perfect.  You do need to be careful on the ones on the end and somehow support the CS cage, otherwise you will get a lopsided hole if the cage is not flush against the material at all times.

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Boo Boo

I dropped a tungsten bucking bar into the bottom of the Outboard Leading Edge and boom, an ugly dent.  I was able to get most of this out later.

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Prime, Oops.

In reading through the primer wars, I thought people were saying to prime along the rivet lines, so I scuffed them up and primed them before I riveted.  Then I found out they were talking about the inside, so the rest of my skins are clean on the outside and primed on the inside.

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W-1012 Rib

Getting this rib trimmed correctly was a pain in the ***!  I trimmed the first one too close, the second one I tried using snips and it ended up putting a nice crack in it, so Van’s got some more money out of me and yes, 3 times is a charm.  Finally.

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Painting Frame

Another great idea from another builder, Nick.  This worked great to paint the ribs, until a little bit of a wind picked up and it sounded like I was painting chimes.  Fortunately, no damage done to the ribs or the paint job.

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More study and prep

10/08/2013 – I match drilled the other pieces of the J-Channel that were supposed to be for the right wing while I wait until the other parts come in.  Dale came over and went over the CS and attaching the nutplates.

 

Match Drilling the J Channel

10/08/2013 – I match drilled the upper side and deburred some of the spar.  I rotated the J-Channel and drilled the remaining holes.  Then I found out the J-Channel needed to be 1/16” above the spar flange, so I ordered two new long and short J-Channels.

 

Spars

I used different color dots to pre-mark all of the different types of nut plates I would be using to make sure I would drill the correct holes.

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Wings Have Arrived!!!

10/07/2013 – Received Wing Kit.  Started inventory process, but left all of the subkits wrapped up.  I was missing a few bags of hardware and Van’s said I had to open all the subkits and inventory each piece.

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