Today a friend flew me to Fort Worth to pick up the plane. Really bad weather kept us from getting there very easily. A normal 3 hour flight was 6 ½, but we did make it there to pick her up. Here are some pics.
Glo Custom sent me this last pic before I go pick it up on the 19th. They still need to paint the last color red, then do some touchups before reassembling the flaps, ailerons, rudder and elevators. He wants me to see the final paint, in person. I was hoping to see a shot a little further out to see how the colors come together, but no dice. While it’s there, I am having another company on the field balance the prop to make sure everything is O.K.
I am having Classic Aero do my seats. They have redesigned the seat that they used to use and it is very nice. They are adding the same logo on the tail, on the seatbacks. The first one they received, they thought was a little too big, so they sent it out again and are awaiting the smaller one to come back. Here is the initial size and design:
Today I flew the plane to Grady at Glo Custom in Fort Worth to get painted. The weather was good until I got right outside of DFW airspace. The airport is 52F, the same field that Doug Reeves calls home and it’s on the Northwest side of DFW. So as I needed to descend, I was right in the middle of their airspace. I was using flight following so they were directing me. They ended up sending me north first around DFW, then back around to 52F. Once I was close to DFW, I had to descend to 2,000′ to stay below the clouds and it was very turbulent. All in all, it was a good 2 ½ hour flight.
Per Dan Horton’s instructions, I removed the wingtip and all 40 nutplates. Unfortunately I had my finger a little too close to the drill underneath supporting the material and added a hole in my finger.
The next step after all the nutplates were out, was to fiberglass tape the inside of the wingtip, then once that dried, add flox to the holes from the previous nutplates.
Then the flox had to be sanded down and new holes drilled for the new nutplates. Once the wing tip was re-installed and matched up with the aileron, I started drilling holes at the leading edge on top then bottom, alternating. As I started moving toward the back, the darn thing started coming up again. So I got it straight, then drilled a couple at trailing edge to keep it from rising up. That worked, although the wing skin is not perfect. I spoke to the painter and he said once it’s painted, it really won’t show.
Here is the wingtip installed and as even as it is going to get with the aileron.
Somehow when Dennis and I installed the wingtips, the left wing tip was not aligned properly. I had been trying to figure out what was causing the heavy wing and although I’m not sure that is 100% of the problem, remounting the wingtip helped. I went to Alabama to see Dan Horton who offered to help me figure it out.
One of the things we tried was to check if the leg fairings were facing rearward correctly.
So we put a string on the leg fairings and ran it to the back, the same distance from each leg and matched that at the tail, 48″. There seemed to be about ⅛” gap in the back of the fairing and the string, but in the end, we felt it wasn’t affecting the heavy wing. Here was the gap in the aileron and the wing tip.
I have mufflers on the exhaust system and they are right by the exit of the bottom of the cowl. That may be keeping the heat from exiting the bottom cowl, so now I am going with straight pipes.
I decided to take the mufflers off and just see what the pressure differential would be. We had one end of the line going through the heat vent on the co-pilot side and up and across the firewall to the back of cylinder 4. The end of the tube was facing the center of the engine to prevent ram air from entering since we were trying to measure pressure. I don’t have a pic of the other end of the tube, but it went under the oil cooler to measure the difference between the top of the cowling and the bottom.
Here is the difference in the two:
The difference ranged from 4-10″ depending on our altitude and speed, but it definitely passed the test.
We landed after the pressure test and Dale did all of the aerobatic testing so we could log it in the airframe book.
Here are a couple of pics of the air caps installed:
As much as I hated to do it, it was time to fabricate the wheel pants, so the plane had to be grounded. If you like fiberglass, you’ll love this part of the build. So far I have all the parts fitted and added the flox/epoxy mixture to the mating parts. It really looks good, I can’t wait to finish the rest of it.
I have had a problem with the front of the canopy pinching and getting bent when opening the canopy. I had to release the canopy to get to the area to straighten the skin and pop, the two little covers for the hinges came right off. Now they are damaged with those little wings that stick out. I’ll have to fabricate two more and replace them. I really don’t like the engineering of those, but I don’t know a better way. Some people say they are keeping the pull mechanism on the panel, not for ejecting out of the plane, but for maintenance. Well, plan on re-fabricating those two covers. There is no way they will survive the canopy popping up when you release that latch.
Again, no pictures, but got a gas truck to come to the plane and load 2 ½ gallons at a time so I could have a bunch of calibration points for the fuel in both tanks. $251 to fill up 50 gallons. I was also able to get the Garmin magnetometer calibrated, but no such luck on the GRT Mini. I will have to figure out why that one was giving me issues.
Jim brought over his scales and we did the weight and balance. I wish I would have taken some pictures, but I totally zoned out. I was so anxious to see how much it weighed, I didn’t get any pictures. The good news is it is within CG! At first we thought it was nose heavy, but after speaking with Van’s and the way we did the measurements, it is within limits.
Update: I received the latest strobe from AeroLED and it failed as well with really no difference. I ordered one from Whelen, which is almost twice as much money to see if that resolves my problem. AeroLED said it’s more of a Garmin issue and once I get the magnetometer calibrated to see if turning on the strobe messes up the compass. They don’t seem to think it will.
Update: The manufacturer, AeroLEDs said the strobe I received puts out a lot of RF and they are sending me a new one to replace it. I should be receiving it this week. At this point I am pretty confident all of the wiring is O.K. and a replacement tail strobe will work.
Today I did the first interference test and it failed on the tail strobe. I’ll need to figure out if the strobes are grounded properly or if the wiring needs to be rerouted from the tail. Everything else was O.K.
I was the first one to fly N144VA, other than a Van’s employee. It will be a great cross country machine, but not as nimble as the RV-7 I used to own. I am used to wheel landings, but Mike wanted me to learn 3 point landings. It is very unnerving to get the plane right off the runway, then stall it. It goes against my grain, but we worked on it and I made some progress, but certainly am not proficient with it. I can say that Mike Seager is an excellent pilot and along with checking me out in the 14 and getting a sign-off, I learned a bunch of other piloting skills. I wish I would have had some more time with him, but I have to get back to work and back to working on the plane.
I thought it would be a good idea if I flew about 5 hours in the RV-14 before my first flight. I have about 270 hours in my old RV-7, but it has been a few years since I have flown that. I go to Oregon and fly with Mike Seager on March 31st and April 1st.
I received my harnesses from Hooker Harness and there is no way the crotch strap is long enough. Scott told me they are the same for the RV-7, but actually the crotch strap is different. He was very gracious and agreeing to fix it, I just have to guess at the correct measurement and send it back to him to fix. From the center of the attachment buckle to the silver adjustable part with the red strap on it, it should be about 10″, not 5″. That’s going UPS today.
Another milestone was achieved. On Saturday a friend helped me install the front skin. It wasn’t too bad, but some of the rivets in the center by the canopy latch were a pain to get to. We had to remove the canopy latch mechanism to get to them. The next step was prosealing all of the holes between the subpanel and the skin. That all had to be done from underneath. Van’s has you put masking tape on top to keep the proseal from seeping through, but when I pulled the tape off the next day, some of the proseal came out of the holes. So I had to go back and reseal all those holes. I decided to try and do it from the top instead of from underneath. We’ll see how well that worked out the next time I go to the airport.
Update: it worked O.K., hopefully there will be no leaks.
I decided to get the new sticks to fit my Tosten grips, so I replaced the original sticks with the new ones and Voila, everything worked. Thanks to Kevin with Tosten for a great replacement. All of the holes were predrilled on the sticks. The pilot stick has aileron and elevator trim, push-to-talk, AP disconnect, Go Around switch and an Ident button. It looks like they are a little off where the powder coat ends, but they are exactly the same height.
Here is a picture of the sticks installed and the completed panel.
Van’s found an issue with the canopy pushing out during accelerated flight, so their solution was to add a pin to an existing canopy so it wouldn’t push out. I thought it was going to be a real pain, but it wasn’t bad at all. Took about 2 hours total time. Here is the top of the pin in the canopy.
Here is where it comes down and sits on the side of the fuselage. Originally I thought that part sitting up was going to be a pain, but it’s really no big deal.
Once all the feathers were on, including ailerons and flaps, it was time to get a good pic from above. I started the project with the wings, as did most everyone else and in the beginning thought I was supposed to prime along the rivet line, so the tops of the wings have primer on them. The painter assures me it is no big deal as everything gets scratched up before final paint.
I’ve done as much as I can with the parts I have, so time to move her to the hangar and attach the wings and tail.
Here she is leaving the comforts of my garage for the last time.
Going down the road:
Unloading at the hangar in Hammond.
I am not sure if I am going to use the Alt Air and I don’t want to put it on the bracket. So if I do use it, I will put it below the air vent on the pilot side, well within reach if needed. This gives me plenty of room between the controls and I made sure the Throttle is close to the flap switch so I can do both with one hand.
Now I need prime the part and send it off to Aerotronics to put the carbon finish on it and label it.
I got the ground from the firewall to the back of the panel. I used a bolt through the firewall, put a nut on it, then the terminal, then another nut and it worked great. So today, I turned on the panel for the first time with it’s own battery.
Here it is on the engine side.
Here it is on the panel side.
We wired all of the CHT’s, EGT’s and all engine monitors, alternators & starter. I still have to wire the red cube, but I have to wait until I get the plans for the FWF and the hoses to install it. I had to use a 60amp fuse for the alternator and a 40amp fuse for the backup alternator, so they are wired here by the master and starter solenoids. I still have to add the smaller boots to some of the terminals, but I have to order them.
I thought it would be a good idea to use some shrink tube on the bus bar to help eliminate anything hitting it and shorting something out. I used the ⅛” bus bar between the starter and master solenoids and 1/16″ on the other two. I wouldn’t have been able to bend the ⅛” in that short area. I’ll have to remove the ones on the shunt to be able to get to the two small screws to attach the other wires, but this way everything can stay in one place for now.
I received my exhaust from Vetterman and installed it. One of the mufflers had a couple of dents in it and Clint is not sure this is the final design. It is different from Van’s, it has two pipes verse the one that Van’s has going down the center tunnel. I will have to cut a couple of holes in the bottom cowl to allow for them to come out the bottom.
My finishing kit shipped and the freight company had a truck break down and they were not going to be able to deliver it until Monday. Ah, no. I went out to New Orleans East and picked it up in a friend’s pickup truck. As you can see, it was a tight fit. Unfortunately Van’s backordered the bolts to attach the motor mount, so I couldn’t get the wheels on today. I made do and did some other tasks until I could get the parts.
I installed the seat backs, but I may take them out again just to make it easier to finish up the wiring under the panel in case I have to get on my back. It doesn’t sound like I will be able to order my seats before year end. I am planning on getting them from Classic Aero, but they are swamped with other orders and haven’t even tried to measure for the seats yet.
I had finished crawling into the back cone of the airplane, except I still have to connect the elevator push tube to the empennage once it’s installed, so I closed off the back and installed the back window. I don’t like the way the black proseal shows through, but that’s how Van’s said to do it. I wish I would have used some sort of clear silicone instead of the proseal.
I decided to use the bus bar to connect the starter relay to the master relay. I used a ⅛” thick bar on that one. Then I created another bar 1/16″ thick from the master to the shunt and another one to the ANL Limiter which holds the 60AMP fuse for the alternator. That bottom post will have a 8 AWG wire attached to it leading to the alternator. I’ll go back and add some sort of shrink tube over the area that is exposed so nothing hits it and throws off sparks. There will be a couple of other wires attached as well, a 2 AWG coming off the battery to the Master, a 20ga going from the panel to the Master and another 20ga from the panel to the starter. There is also a 8 AWG going from the master by the yellow diode to the panel. I’ll remove the stickers on them once I have everything wired. It helps to remind me which one is which.
Here’s where it will sit below the manifold. I haven’t drilled holes in the firewall to mount it yet, I want to make sure there is nothing else going in that area, but I think that will be a good position.
Here is a picture of the firewall with the fittings I currently have on it. I am trying to plan any additional penetrations now before I receive the engine mount and actually mount the engine. With the help from Matt, who’s building a RV-14a for Van’s, I was able to determine what the existing nutplates will be used for.
I am working on all of the wiring that goes to P-1 plug. All of the wiring for the lights, starter, battery master, fuel pump, P-Mags, accessory power plug, map & cabin lights, flaps and Alt Field. Some I can’t do yet until the engine is mounted, because I don’t know exactly how long to make them, but whatever I can wire, I am doing so.
These are the wires for the lights and the fuel sender.
I received the panel front from Aerotronics and installed it back in the plane. Good news about the CO2 detector, the company checked it and no problems, plus they replaced the cover with a new one, so just like new. I’m waiting on that return to install it, then I will be finished working with the panel for now.
Here is the finished left side of the panel with the CO2 part installed.
Once the panel was installed, I put the canopy back on to test everything. The one thing we didn’t account for was the tunnel of the canopy and the length of the CO2 detector. It was too high up and stuck out too far, so when you bring the canopy down, it hits. So I had to pull out the unit and send it back to be checked for damage and rearrange the panel to put the smaller items, the ELT and Hobbs above it.
Now that I think I am finished with the aft fuselage and bringing the wires forward, I went ahead and installed the transponder right behind the baggage cover. That way it will be easy access when it needs maintenance. Then I ran all those wires up to the panel. Here you can see the location of the transponder and the shelf in the back with the magnetometers on it and how neat the wires are.
I only have those two white wires on the left from the elevator trim that I have to deal with. I think I will bring them up the right side of this picture and insert them into the molex connector on the pilot side.
I climbed in to the back of the plane and worked my way forward tidying up all the wires since I am pretty sure we have all the wires that are coming from the tail section. The only two wires I need to address are coming from the elevator trim and tail light up to the bulkhead, then the wires coming from the bulkhead up to the instrument panel. I also received the wire harness coming from the Garmin magnetometer and I ran that up to the panel.
Wired the new aileron trim relay and terminated in P-7 and P-15. Installed empennage to verify elevator fits correctly, drilled elevator horns. Tested elevator trim. Empennage is complete. Wired white and green glare shield map light. Installed Garmin 625 antenna behind the back window a little off-center on the pilot side due to the support going down the middle of the top skin. Installed Garmin EFIS antenna in canopy on the glareshield.
Finished wiring GRT mini magnetometer.
We finished riveting the right wing after installing the AutoPilot and figuring out what to do about the aileron trim. Aileron pushbuttons were installed. Also installed the Garmin and GRT OAT fittings in the wings, one in the left, one in the right. Ran wires from the ELT to the panel. Both wings are finished and being sent to the warehouse to give us more room to work.
Instead of waiting for UPS to deliver the panel, we had them hold it and we went and picked it up. It came well packed in a huge container.
Once we got the crate unpacked and all inventory done, it was time to start installing it in the panel. Because some of the items were pre-wired, it was quite tricky, but once we had a chance to think about it, we got it in there.
Well it didn’t smoke, which is a good thing.
Another milestone achieved. Now it’s time to wire up all of the radios, etc. To see the panel up close and the quality of work that Jason at Aerotronics did, I could not be happier. Those with much more experience that me, were very impressed with the workmanship. Thanks Jason!
Well, my expert helper is back in town, so it’s time to take off of work and get some work done on the plane. I’m amazed at his breath of knowledge and don’t know how I could complete this build without his expert help and advice.
First he attached the rudder cable fairings that I fabricated from another builders plans.
Now the canopy is attached. There are a few odds and ends before I can start the fiberglass fairing process. I need to put in on the plane and check the fitting of the canopy, then attach the clips to hold it down while it is being fiberglassed. At least the pool table is getting some use, other than for folding clothes.
Time to pucker up and drill some holes in the canopy. It actually was not bad at all. Once I got the good fit to everything and drilled the initial holes, then you had to go back and widen them with a #27 to fit a #6 screw. That was nerve racking because the drill bit kept wanting to twist as it entered the plexiglass. I didn’t get any pictures of the process, I guess I was too focused on getting the holes right and not damaging the canopy.
Here is a pic of the canopy in place with the back window. The back window is finished and will be installed in the end. That will allow for easier access to the back of the plane until I finish all the wiring.
I am waiting on some assistance on painting the inside of the canopy frame, because the back roll bar has to be the same color as the roll bar, which is Fighter Blue. I can spray the primer, but I don’t have the correct gun or talent to paint the roll bar. Once I get the canopy frame painted, then I can attach it all and start working on the fiberglass fairing on the front of the canopy and the frame. Once that is finished, I will be waiting again for the rest of the finishing kit to be delivered.
Now for the scary part, the canopy. I put the plexiglass on the frame and measured everything and the back part needed a little trimming, so I used my dremel tool, then my perma-grit sanding block, then 400 grit sandpaper to get a good finish on the end.
One I put the canopy on the frame, I outlined where it was going to lay on the front part. Then I used the epoxy slurry to fill any holes, then I painted it flat black like Van’s recommends to cut down on the glare.
It was time to start assembling the canopy frame. Van’s was very adamant about checking for squareness with a digital level as you work on the canopy. Although they didn’t mention what was within tolerance, I finished within 1/10 of a degree.
Here is the canopy assembled and connected to the hinges.
It’s amazing how well the window fit without any modifications. I did need to make the two notches in the back and a little on the sides by the roll bar, but other than that, it’s a very nice fit. I had to wait on the #36 bit that Bob from Avery had made for the 14 builders, but once I got that, I was able to drill the holes in the canopy, then tap for a #6 screw into the canopy and the roll bar. I had one of the taps break off, but luckily enough of it was sticking out that I could get a pair of pliers on it and get it back out.
I went ahead and installed the pitch Autopilot. Garmin sent a solid aluminum rod and it first had to be cut to size. Then it needed a hole in the middle of it and then it had to be tapped to accept the fitting. At first I couldn’t figure out how to drill the hole centered in the rod and Van’s suggestion was to use a lathe. Perfect! But that’s probably the only tool I don’t own, so I put the rod in a wooden block, clamped it on the drill press and carefully drilled the hole. It worked perfectly. Oddly enough the roll install kit comes with a rod that is already threaded. If this didn’t work, I was going to order an additional rod and use it on the pitch, but it worked great. Another skill learned!
I ordered all of the antennas. I got the ADS-B and Transponder Antenna from Delta Pop Aviation and the two Comm antennas from Aerotronics. Here I installed the ADS-B Antenna in the back. First I had to shave off some of the front of the antenna because of the interference with the bottom skin. Don from Delta Pop was nice enough to send me this drawing so I could see how much I could remove for a good fit.
Then I fabricated a doubler to add a little strength in case the antenna gets bumped.
I also installed the bracket for the ELT to put that in place.
While waiting on the finishing kit and word is, it may be a while before we receive the wheels and motor mount, I went ahead and put on a set of wheels so I can do some of the antenna work and also be able to roll it around for better utilization.
I have been working on the layout of the panel and received some trays to fit into the radio stack. We found out you can’t put the Garmin 625 on the bottom, unless you want to cut out part of the back of the subpanel because it is higher in the back by about 1 ½”. This means I will have to put the AutoPilot on the bottom, then the Audio Panel, then the 625. Not my ideal configuration, but I think it will work.
Here is the back of the subpanel
Once I put the two halves together, it was time to work on the fuel system. I tried to bend the aluminum fuel line, but found that it was difficult to get really good bends, so I installed the fuel components and am waiting on the fuel lines. Here is the fuel pump and filter.
One of the more difficult tasks was getting the washers in between this tight area on the control column. You had to do it on both sides of the bolt. I created my “tool” out of scrap aluminum and used double tape to keep it on the tool until I had it in place for the bolt, then yanked the tool loose from the washer. Worked well, just took a while to get the right size washers in that area so there was no left to right slack in the stick. Perfect, no left to right movement at all.
I was backriveting the skin on a 12″ x 12″ steel plate in the middle of a board and didn’t get good results, so I flipped the skin on the bulkhead and clamped it down. I think this method is going to work a lot better, but I am going to have to get my wife to hold the bucking bar.
I wish I would have thought of doing it this way the first time. I will have to remove some of the rivets that did not sit well on the backriveting plate.
It’s time to dimple the bottom skin. The instructions can be a little confusing here because, they are for both the tri-gear and the taildragger. So you dimple or not in certain areas, depending on what you are building. I am building the taildragger, so I have to make sure I don’t dimple in the wrong spot or otherwise mess up what would be a very expensive part to replace and ship.
Then I had to put two of the outboard ribs on the bottom skin and flute them in a curve. Since the bottom skin is big, I needed a big area to work on it. I’m glad the pool table is finally getting some use for something other than a laundry table.
Here’s our brand new Lycoming IO-390 about to get reworked. They are going to Port Flow and Balance Cylinders, alodine heads and paint the barrels black, exchange camshaft for performance grind, O-Ring case and precision re-balance. They are also adding the dual P-Mag instead of the magnetos. Once done, it will be painted this blue. Once all of that is done, test it.
Added the wing tip lights. When I first laid out the template for the navigation lights, it didn’t line up with the “Y” bracket. Had I used the template, the screws would not match. So I put the template down, then placed the “Y” on the template and marked the holes through the holes in the “Y”.
Here is the “Y” piece installed.
There was some talk of the screws on the rudder that hold the lead counterweight in place, coming loose. Once the fairing is attached, there is no way to get in and hold the nut to tighten the screw. So I did what some people suggested on VAF and used Proseal on the bottom of the counterweight, then once the screws were tightened down, I lathered the nuts up with Proseal.
We lost our old friend today, she was a great companion and we will miss her. Lexy RIP
So when it was time to get another co-pilot we opted for a smaller version. This is Lily.
I decided to redo the rudder because I was not happy with the trailing edge. I got all new parts except for the spar. The advice I had was to fly with it and if it gave me issues, replace after the plane is flying. However, since the fuselage kit won’t ship for at least another month, I went ahead and ordered the parts to fix it now. Also if I did that, it would cost me a lot more because of the repainting, etc. Besides, it gives me something to do besides yard work!
There were 2 places that rivets were not called for in the plans. The first one is at the top of the tailcone on F-01407 and F-14131, which I checked with Van’s and they said I could go ahead and rivet the two pieces together. Then the bell crank ribs, F01429R&L where they attach to F-01407. I was able to squeeze the top two, but the bottom one is impossible to get to with the squeezer. I have a call into Van’s to see if I can use a LP4-3 in it’s place.
Since I am finished with everything, except redoing the rudder, I am putting all the parts away safely and getting them out of the bedrooms. Here the tailcone is stored safely up above the cabinets.
J helped me wrap up all of the control services with bubble wrap, styrofoam and packing film. I originally got the idea from KC. The ailerons are on the top shelf, the flaps under that. To the right are the elevators. Since the counterbalance is on the outside, I put some weight on the opposite side to make sure they stayed put. Bags of shot used in a diving belt worked good because there is no chance it will damage the skin. I put the vertical stabilizer behind the flap and the flaps won’t move since the brackets come down through the wire shelving. Then I put the wing tips on top of the elevators. The only thing missing is the rudder, which will be built, again, in the next couple of weeks while I am waiting on the fuselage.
When I initially did the overlap on the rudder skins, I did not make the bend in the leading edge of the R-00901-L-1. The finish did not look good, so I drilled out all of the pop rivets, which was easy and creased the leading edge with my tool from Cleaveland and it came out much better.
I ran out of the AD-41-ABS, so as soon as Van’s gets them to me, I will finish this repair.
While I have some time, I am going over some things that are bothering me on the plane. The rudder had 4 rivets that were sticking up too much. Not sure how that happened, but it had to be fixed. First I removed the fairing, then all of the rivets holding on the R-903 Top rib and removed that. Then I removed the Counterweight to get to those problem 4 rivets.
Then I riveted everything back together and am very happy with the result.
I went to Oregon for a Long Range Shooting School and had to stop by the plant. Unfortunately it was a Friday and no production was going on, but Ken was nice enough to give me a ride in the -14. Even though the weather was drizzly, we had a great flight. Having owned a -7, the -14 seems to be much more stable. Can’t wait to finish!
Both wings now have the fuel tanks and Outboard leading edges attached. I need to do the wing tips, lights and add any additional wires, then attach the bottom skins. Since I had to start on the wings and this is my first experience, I misunderstood the priming issue. I thought other builders were saying to prime on the rivet line and they were, but on the inside, not the outside. Oh well, it is getting painted anyway.
Here is one of the wings with the fuel tank, leak free and the Outboard Leading Edge attached. Progress!!
There are several builders that have built these wing cradles. Prior to building these, I had my wings sitting on the garage floor on carpet. Not the best place for your wings. They worked great and I was able to move them against the wall once I finished working on them. Out of the way, safe and sound.
Did I ever mention how much I hate proseal? Some people say it’s no big deal, they lie. It’s a pain and extremely messy. It gets on everything and only sticks to what you don’t want it to. Don’t forget the days you are going to work with it and wear something you want to wear again. Here are a couple of pics of the fuel tanks. The biggest pain is taking a 3.5 rivet and dipping it in proseal, then trying to put it in a small hole with a sticky glove on. Now repeat 500 times.
Luckily I had my expert helper, Dennis helping me get through it.
Starting to put the ailerons together. I don’t think aluminum makes a good drill guide for steel. While trying to “match” drill the holes in the steel bar used as a counter balance, the bit wandered. I was able to use some steel putty to fill the gap and it repaired nicely. That part won’t be seen anyway. Once painted, you won’t even know it had to be repaired.
10/08/2013 – I match drilled the other pieces of the J-Channel that were supposed to be for the right wing while I wait until the other parts come in. Dale came over and went over the CS and attaching the nutplates.
10/08/2013 – I match drilled the upper side and deburred some of the spar. I rotated the J-Channel and drilled the remaining holes. Then I found out the J-Channel needed to be 1/16” above the spar flange, so I ordered two new long and short J-Channels.
The wings have been shipped and are due to arrive on 10/07/2013.